ISLE OF SKYE
POP 9900
The Isle of Skye (an t-Eilean Sgiathanach in Gaelic) takes its name from the old Norse sky-a, meaning ‘cloud island’, a Viking reference to the often-mist-enshrouded Cuillin Hills. It’s the largest of Scotland’s islands, a 50-mile-long smorgasbord of velvet moors, jagged mountains, sparkling lochs and towering sea cliffs. The stunning scenery is the main attraction, but when the mist closes in there are plenty of castles, crofting museums and cosy pubs and restaurants in which to retire.
Along with Edinburgh and Loch Ness, Skye is one of Scotland’s top-three tourist destinations. However, the hordes tend to stick to Portree, Dunvegan and Trotternish – it’s almost always possible to find peace and quiet in the island’s further-flung corners. Come prepared for changeable weather: when it’s fine it’s very fine indeed, but all too often it isn’t.
Activities
Walking
Skye offers some of the finest – and in places, the roughest and most difficult – walking in Scotland. There are many detailed guidebooks available, including a series of four walking guides by Charles Rhodes, available from the Aros Experience ( Click here ) and the tourist office in Portree. You’ll need Ordnance Survey (OS) 1:50,000 maps 23 and 32. Don’t attempt the longer walks in bad weather or in winter.
Easy, low-level routes include: through Strath Mor from Luib (on the Broadford–Sligachan road) and on to Torrin (on the Broadford–Elgol road; allow 1½ hours, 4 miles); from Sligachan to Kilmarie via Camasunary (four hours, 11 miles); and from Elgol to Kilmarie via Camasunary (2½ hours, 6.5 miles). The walk from Kilmarie to Coruisk and back via Camasunary and the ‘Bad Step’ is superb but slightly harder (11 miles round trip, allow five hours). The Bad Step is a rocky slab poised above the sea that you have to scramble across; it’s easy in fine, dry weather, but some walkers find it intimidating.
Skye Walking Holidays WALKING
(01470-552213; www.skyewalks.co.uk; Duntulm Castle Hotel) Organises three-day guided walking holidays for £400 per person, including four nights of hotel accommodation.
Climbing
The Cuillin Hills is a veritable playground for rock climbers, and the two-day traverse of the Cuillin Ridge is the finest mountaineering expedition in the British Isles. There are several mountain guides in the area who can provide instruction and safely introduce inexperienced climbers to the more difficult routes.
Skye Guides ROCK CLIMBING
(01471-822116; www.skyeguides.co.uk) A two-day introduction-to-rock-climbing course costs around £360, and a private mountain guide can be hired for around £200 a day (both rates apply for up to two clients).
Sea Kayaking
The sheltered coves and sea lochs around the coast of Skye provide water-lovers with magnificent sea-kayaking opportunities. The centres listed here can provide kayaking instruction, guiding and equipment hire for both beginners and experts. It costs around £35 to £40 for a half-day kayak hire with instruction.
Whitewave Outdoor Centre KAYAKING
(01470-542414; www.white-wave.co.uk; 19 Linicro; Mar-Oct) Provides kayaking instruction, guiding and equipment hire for both beginners and experts.
Skyak Adventures KAYAKING
(01471-820002; www.skyakadventures.com; 29 Lower Breakish) Expeditions and courses to take both beginners and experienced paddlers to otherwise inaccessible places.
Tours
There are several operators who offer guided tours of Skye, covering history, culture and wildlife. Rates are from £150 to £200 for a six-hour tour for up to six people.
Skye Tours BUS TOUR
(0800 980 4846; www.skye-tours.co.uk; adult/child £35/30; Mon-Sat) Five-hour sightseeing tours of Skye in a minibus, departing from the tourist office car park in Kyle of Lochalsh (close to Kyle of Lochalsh train station).
Skye Light Images 4WD TOUR
(07909 706802; www.skyejeepsafaris.co.uk; Oct-Easter) Offers 4WD winter safaris in the wilder areas of Skye with tuition on landscape and wildlife photography.
Information
Internet Access
The Portree Information Centre ( Click here ) also has internet access for £1 per 20 minutes.
Columba 1400 Community Centre (Staffin; per hr £1; 10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct)
Seamus’s Bar (Sligachan Hotel; per 15min £1; 11am-11pm)
Medical Services
Portree Community Hospital (01478-613200; Fancyhill) There’s a casualty department and dental surgery here.
START ULLAPOOL
FINISH PORTREE
DISTANCE 320 MILES
DURATION 3–4 DAYS
Driving Tour: Wee Roads & Mighty Mountains
Starting in the photogenic harbour town of Ullapool, this drive takes in some of the lesser-known roads and the most majestic of Highland scenery, ending at the Isle of Skye.
Leave your bags in the hotel, because the first day is a long round trip from Ullapool. Head north, and take the left turn towards Achiltibuie, where after gaping at impressive lochside Stac Pollaidh en route, you can admire the outlook over the Summer Isles. From here, it’s the Wee Mad Road, a narrow, tortuous but pretty drive north to Lochinver. From this pretty town, another minor road winds north past spectacular beaches at Achmelvich and Clachtoll to Kylesku, where the hotel makes a great lunch stop. Head back south to Ullapool on the main road, with classic northwestern scenery and things to see such as Inchnadamph Caves, Ardvreck Castle and Knockan Crag along the way.
The next day head inland along the A835 before taking the Gairloch turn-off, following the long, circuitous coast road with plenty of activity options from whale-watching trips to pacing a botanic garden to hill walking around one of Scotland’s most scenic lochs, Loch Maree. At Kinlochewe turn back towards the coast, descending a spectacular pass to Torridon, where the rugged beauty is simply breathtaking. There are good overnight stops all along this route.
From Shieldaig, take the coastal route to sublime little Applecross, then brave the Bealach na Ba pass to get you back to the main road. A loop around Loch Carron will eventually bring you to the A87. Turn left, passing Eilean Donan Castle and, reaching Glen Shiel, take the right turn to Glenelg, a scenic, out-of-the-way place with a wonderfully rustic ferry crossing to Skye (not in winter). Disembark at Kylerhea and enjoy the vistas on one of the island’s least-trafficked roads before hitting the A87 again. From here, Portree is an easy drive, but numerous picturesque detours – to Sleet or Elgol for example – mean you might take a while to reach it yet.
Money
Only Portree and Broadford have banks with ATMs, and Portree’s tourist office has a currency exchange desk.
Tourist Information
Broadford Information Centre (01471-822361; car park, Broadford; 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Apr-Oct)
Dunvegan Information Centre (01470-521581; 2 Lochside; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat Jun-Oct plus 10am-4pm Sun Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri Apr & May, limited opening hours Nov-Mar)
Portree Information Centre (01478-612137; Bayfield Rd; internet per 20min £1; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Jun-Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat Apr, May & Sep, limited opening hours Oct-Mar)
Getting There & Away
Boat Despite the bridge, there are still a couple of ferry links between Skye and the mainland. Ferries also operate from Uig on Skye to the Outer Hebrides.
Mallaig to Armadale (www.calmac.co.uk; per person/car £4.35/22.60) The Mallaig to Armadale ferry (30 minutes, eight daily Monday to Saturday, five to seven on Sunday) is very popular in July and August, so book ahead if you’re travelling by car.
Glenelg to Kylerhea (www.skyeferry.co.uk; car with up to four passengers £14) Runs a tiny vessel (six cars only) on the short Kylerhea to Glenelg crossing (five minutes, every 20 minutes). The ferry operates from 10am to 6pm daily from Easter to October only (to 7pm June to August).
Bus Glasgow to Portree £40, seven hours, four daily
Glasgow to Uig £40, 7½ hours, two daily; via Crianlarich, Fort William and Kyle of Lochalsh
Inverness to Portree £23, 3½ hours, three daily
Car & Motorcycle The Isle of Skye became permanently tethered to the Scottish mainland when the Skye Bridge opened in 1995. The controversial bridge tolls were abolished in 2004 and the crossing is now free.
There are petrol stations at Broadford (open 24 hours), Armadale, Portree, Dunvegan and Uig.
Getting Around
Getting around the island by public transport can be a pain, especially if you want to explore away from the main Kyleakin–Portree–Uig road. Here, as in much of the Highlands, there are only a few buses on Saturday, and only one Sunday service (between Kyle of Lochalsh and Portree).
Bus Stagecoach ( Click here ) operates the main bus routes on the island, linking all the main villages and towns. Its Skye Dayrider ticket gives unlimited bus travel for one day for £7.50. For time-table info, call Traveline (0871 200 2233).
Taxi Kyle Taxi Company (01599-534323) You can order a taxi or hire a car from Kyle Taxi Company. Car hire costs from around £38 a day, and you can arrange for the car to be waiting at Kyle of Lochalsh train station.